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How to Use a Straight Razor

Learn how to use a straight razor in this Howcast video.

Transcript

Now we're going to demonstrate a straight razor shave. This is what we use in the shop. It's a straight razor. The razor is actually injectable, so that you can use a different razor for every client. These are honed, just like they do a regular straight razor, so it's just as sharp and the balance is just as good. The reason why we do a straight razor shave, is you get a very, very close shave, and the thing is you try to get less irritation.

What I'm going to do is tilt his head on the side. I wipe away the area that I'm shaving, because I want to make sure I don't see any moles or anything like that, that I'm going to go ahead and wind up cutting. This razor right here is designed that you can hold the blade right to the skin. It's at a 30 degree angle, so this allows you to run it straight down without cutting, all right?

You're going to start right here and run the blade straight down. Keep the skin tight, so that you get a close shave to it. When shaving with a straight razor you want to take your time. Now it's very important that you shave with the grain, especially on the first shave. Try to shave against the grain right away, again what's going to happen is, you'll pull the hair up and it'll go back into the skin, and that's what causes a lot of the ingrown hairs.

As for shaving the mustache area, what we like to do is pinch the nose and pull up. This allows us to get better coverage. Again, wipe away the shave cream, so that you see any imperfections or moles that you don't want to hit. Start up above where the hair is so that you you can get a nice, clean shave. This area you want to take smaller strokes. Pressure is a key when straight razor shaving. You want to light pressure on, because you don't want the blade to be bouncing on the skin. As you can see, I'm shaving with the grain of his hair.

Now we're going to go ahead and get the chin area. Always watch out if the guys have scars. A lot of times guys have scars right under the chin, and you have to be very careful shaving through those areas. You don't want to reopen one. I'm going to pinch and pull. This allows me to get more of the area. Now as you can see, there are spots in here. We're not trying to shave everything off all on the first shave, because we're actually going to give him a second shave.

There are two ways we can do this. We can either put preshave back on with the shave cream, what I like to do is because I have so much moisturizer already on it, and I actually get a better shave this way, on my second shave is I just use water. And a lot of times if you have sensitive skin sometimes it's better to shave with cold water. Moisturize some of the areas that I'm trying to get off. Again, keep the skin tight and we're going to cross-grain this. We just demonstrated a straight razor shave, and that's how you would do a straight razor shave to get a close shave.

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